Fitness
Hangboard Training Protocol
Hangboard protocols use short timed hangs with long rests—open-hand first, twice weekly, progressing load slowly for finger strength without pulley flares.
A hangboard training protocol uses timed hangs—often seven to ten seconds—with two to five minutes rest, progressing edge depth or added load weekly instead of daily max testing. Start open-hand on large edges before small half-crimp pockets when returning from layoff or pulley irritation.
Two sessions weekly beat daily max hangs for pulley health in most intermediate climbers. Stop sets when grip fails early or pain exceeds mild warmth during or after.
Common questions
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How long should hangboard hangs last?
Most protocols use seven to ten seconds of max effort per hang. Longer hangs shift toward endurance; shorter repeats toward power—match your goal.
Related terms
Put Hangboard Training Protocol into practice
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